Two More "Bonus Sights", (still on the long march to our destination--more when we get there)

The Pyramid of Cestius, erected just prior to the "common era" or birth of Christ, the tomb was so massive that this portion of the Roman Wall incorporated it. Over 2,000 years old, it was recently restored and cleaned up.

I knew about the Non-Catholic Cemetery of Rome as the grave site of English poets and some of their families and friends; there is so much to see in Rome, I did not think it would be likely to visit.

But our energetic tour guide and youngest son, Ian, managed to steer us in this direction as we walked to the museum that was our goal.

There cannot be a "happy cemetery", but this one is so evocative, with so much history, in such a fabulous location, so beloved and tended! This area, near the Pyramid, is a "Poets Corner" with people like Keats and Shelley, etc. could certainly be inviting to people who love the works of these writers.

There were places to sit: contemplate your surroundings? read a poem or story of your favorite writer?  (It reminded me of  the William Faulkner home in Oxford, MS: the yard is furnished with lots of chairs where people can think about the writer, read or discuss his work with others.)

The main section of the cemetery is devoted to thousands of Protestants, Jewish people and others who died in Rome or intended to be interred here.

Impressive displays of lovely tomb art, worthy of a visit on their own merits.

Modern works, too.

We spent nearly an hour here--admission is "free" but they expect and appreciate a donation; suggested 3-Euro per head.

I'm so glad we got to see a part of this; it is large. It has a nice bathroom, too; always a consideration in Rome. They have water.

A Bonus Sight--A Beautiful Surprise! Roseto Comunale--Who Knew?

Typical Roman Vistas on a lovely spring day.

Roseto Comunale: The Roman Rose Garden near the Circus Maximus, on the way of our long walk to another great museum (more later), we "took a short cut" through this treasure.

About 1,100 varieties of roses; in full bloom for our walkabout! What good fortune. Date was in the May 20 area--so last half of May.

As with everything in Rome, the site was once something else (and something else before that).
This area was once the Jewish Cemetery from about 17th to 19th Centuries, during the time of the Papal-mandated Roman Ghetto (on the Roman side of the Tiber).

An expert or person who grows roses could probably plan an entire Roman vacation around this place. We strolled among the plants for perhaps half an hour (and sat on benches); hardly scratched the surface of all there was to see. It was free, but I believe there on guided tours and shows for a fee?

"Unknown Roman": The Capitoline Museum--or as the Romans say: Musei Capitolini

The majority of the ancient Roman statues and busts on exhibit anywhere are not identifiable; so much time has passed and abuse to the artifacts has occurred. "Unknown Roman" is the label you mostly see.   For myself, I cannot see enough of these sculpted portraits; I don't care who the person "was named" when he or she was alive; an artist captured the likeness, the expression. And centuries later, we can marvel at the result.

Amazing, I say. I have read that in Ancient times, these likenesses were painted in bright colors.

I believe I prefer the way we see them now--or maybe it just "looks right" to us now?

Who was she? She was rich, she was probably noble. She shows little expression. It is good to see the busts in pristine condition, even if only due to conservation by experts.

A grave box of a couple, with evocative images of the trails and triumphs of their lives.

Strong leader? Even if we think we know who it is, we could be wrong.

Revered elder? Is that evidence of wounds he received in this life (on our right, through his eye) or damage to the bust later? "Known Only to God" might be a way to think of them.

Difficult for the young to show much expression in the sculptures---same as in live?

I did not take enough photos in the Capitoline; it is large, with varied exhibits: Ruins and sculptures from Ancient Rome and magnificent 16th Century rooms, paintings, so much more. We "saw" it all, we slowly walked through every room. There are rooms full of busts or "heads" lined up on tiered shelves so you can sit and contemplate each face. The only hint we have for most is the skill of the artist to "show us who they were".

Trastevere--Part 2--Scenes from the Piazzo San Cosimato

A place to shop for produce...

and other groceries at the local Todis Supermercati, just down the next block

People to watch at all times of day and night

The temperature was in the 60's (F) mainly; it usually felt humid to me. I have read that in Ancient Roman times, the climate was warmer. I was startled to see the Romans usually all wrapped up in long pants, sleeves, jackets, even coats and scarves! We, in short sleeves and on the warm side, at that.

I have read that Italy's birthrate is so low that the population is declining. Yet, there were kids everywhere! Literally, day and night, strolling with parents, playing in the park.  Regularly, I would see little girls with toy doll carriages, wheeling their dollies, just like the stylish little girl above.
I don't believe little girls in the 'States play with such toys anymore? The kids on the plaza played wildly on the playground and on bikes, toy cars, skates, skate boards. Not a helmet in sight; just like my childhood.

From the hospital, an elderly nursing sister aids a man not much older than herself.

This handsome guy. And his pigeon. Thank Goodness he didn't bring it home.

The "Old Neighborhood" in Trastevere, where we stayed. (Part 1)

The iconic view of Santa Maria in Trastevere, (said to be) the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in Rome. This piazza has existed as a center of the community forever. Today, the area is like a theme park for bars and restaurants, but all of Trastevere seems happily occupied by spirits of long ago lives.

We were only "steps away" from the American Academy in Rome: it was at least 100 steps. Ask me how I know.

 Endless narrow lanes and alleys like this in Trastevere; first paved in the 1500's. In older times, wooden shacks and booths fronted the walls of the buildings. The lanes would have been merely crowded paths. Each day we tried to find new ones to explore.

Along Via di San Cosimato to the piazza of the same name, there is a community herb garden above, one of the ubiquitous Roman water faucets (we loved) and the golden mosaic of an ornamental fountain--lit a night, with water trickling down the glassy surface. Under the tree is a good sized, fenced in play park for little kids. 

There is an ancient and famous church just out of the shot. Show you later.

Everyone who visits Rome seems to adopt a favorite gelato shop. Ours was the Fata Morgana in Trastevere--out of the shot to the left.   Everyday, sometimes it was what I had for dinner.

Somehow, a newbie to Roman tourism might think that Rome is dotted with outdoor fruit and vegetable markets; but no: there are only a few. Fortunately, this one was only a block from our apartment! The produce was great, especially the wonderful oranges.

Behind the produce stands, were permanent installations housing meat, fish and cheese shops.