Trastevere--Part 2--Scenes from the Piazzo San Cosimato

A place to shop for produce...

and other groceries at the local Todis Supermercati, just down the next block

People to watch at all times of day and night

The temperature was in the 60's (F) mainly; it usually felt humid to me. I have read that in Ancient Roman times, the climate was warmer. I was startled to see the Romans usually all wrapped up in long pants, sleeves, jackets, even coats and scarves! We, in short sleeves and on the warm side, at that.

I have read that Italy's birthrate is so low that the population is declining. Yet, there were kids everywhere! Literally, day and night, strolling with parents, playing in the park.  Regularly, I would see little girls with toy doll carriages, wheeling their dollies, just like the stylish little girl above.
I don't believe little girls in the 'States play with such toys anymore? The kids on the plaza played wildly on the playground and on bikes, toy cars, skates, skate boards. Not a helmet in sight; just like my childhood.

From the hospital, an elderly nursing sister aids a man not much older than herself.

This handsome guy. And his pigeon. Thank Goodness he didn't bring it home.

The "Old Neighborhood" in Trastevere, where we stayed. (Part 1)

The iconic view of Santa Maria in Trastevere, (said to be) the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in Rome. This piazza has existed as a center of the community forever. Today, the area is like a theme park for bars and restaurants, but all of Trastevere seems happily occupied by spirits of long ago lives.

We were only "steps away" from the American Academy in Rome: it was at least 100 steps. Ask me how I know.

 Endless narrow lanes and alleys like this in Trastevere; first paved in the 1500's. In older times, wooden shacks and booths fronted the walls of the buildings. The lanes would have been merely crowded paths. Each day we tried to find new ones to explore.

Along Via di San Cosimato to the piazza of the same name, there is a community herb garden above, one of the ubiquitous Roman water faucets (we loved) and the golden mosaic of an ornamental fountain--lit a night, with water trickling down the glassy surface. Under the tree is a good sized, fenced in play park for little kids. 

There is an ancient and famous church just out of the shot. Show you later.

Everyone who visits Rome seems to adopt a favorite gelato shop. Ours was the Fata Morgana in Trastevere--out of the shot to the left.   Everyday, sometimes it was what I had for dinner.

Somehow, a newbie to Roman tourism might think that Rome is dotted with outdoor fruit and vegetable markets; but no: there are only a few. Fortunately, this one was only a block from our apartment! The produce was great, especially the wonderful oranges.

Behind the produce stands, were permanent installations housing meat, fish and cheese shops.

The Streets of Rome--From important architecture and art to the silly and frivolous, all in one scene.

The back side of the Pantheon peeks out between the two buildings...

Yes. It's a Bernini Elephant--whimsical and a little sweet, like a Disney elephant--with an ancient Egyptian obelisk on top--important, interesting.

Reflection photo image: just a few blocks from the Bernini, you find a Fashion Corridor with stylish shops with bright show windows.

Current styles in bright colors in tasteful array....and this is not even the really expensive part of Rome.

And the slippers and sandals to compliment the new fashions.  They had handbags, too.  They never miss an opportunity to showcase a potential sale; you cannot blame the shopkeepers of Rome. Every week a new set of tourists arrive in town, eager to stroll the famous streets, eat and drink at the many restaurants and shop in the stylish stores. When they leave, no worries--another group arrives.

While our Kidz shopped for a suit for him and a dress for her at Cos, we found a cool, secluded court yard with interesting plants and rocks. We sat in shade, it was quiet and sweet; just steps from the busy road outside. Eventually we got the texts that the shopping was complete, then took them to lunch at Ginger.      Even we, it seems, can approach the lifestyles of the young and cool when in Rome.    Think what you could enjoy!

I wish I could remember in which church niche this amazing piece is tucked away.  It's obviously composed of bits and pieces of ancient relics??    We made a point to go inside each and every church we passed (that was open at the time). We are not Catholic but were surely able to admire with reverence and quiet the master pieces inside.  Some 900 churches in Rome!!

The trouble was, not being Catholic, we didn't know much about the various Saints and relics, etc. We didn't know much about the individual histories of the churches...thank Goodness for Google. (I never feel that way, actually/)  Maybe there is a large "coffee table book" with photos in our public library?   (So much to learn.)

"Another Side of Rome" Objectives of Our Visit--Illustrated By the Backside of the Pantheon

I wanted our trip to be self-styled, though packed with activities and sights.

Since we were visiting our son and daughter-in-law (she: a Fellow at the American Academy in Rome with focus on the "Corner Problem in the Ancient World of Architecture" -- a paraphrase) we wanted to Walk A Lot; my son loves to take long city walks wherever he is; she, too.  Through the ages, I bet most Romans had to walk about their world; so good exercise was also a way to "honor that principle"?  I always notice more as a pedestrian.

Also, sneaky way to spend more time with the Kidz (as I call them).

On the outside of the Dome there is a Stairway for access to the Ocular!! Yikes, I don't want to go up there! You can see the on the center right area of the Dome, above.

We kept re-visiting the Pantheon--it was usually on the way to something else. The kids knew a lot about the back side, the construction details, additions, deletions, etc of the structure.

Which leads to another Objective of the Trip: most tourists only stand in line, walk through the interior (armed with whatever knowledge they have or the tour guide offers AND Their Cell Phone for Selfies). We wanted to see the famous sights and sites--Yes--but shun the crowds, also see the Other Side, Look Deeper. 

Some arches, I learned, were purpose-built to be filled in with brick for extra strength. You see this all over the city in ancient buildings and the Walls of Rome.

The paving stones you see all around you, alas, are not necessarily the ones the Ancients knew.

Interesting half-dome configuration on the back of the building.

So we lingered here for a while, sitting on a wall, looking at details; Ian recalled details learned on academic tours and lectures; reading. It was shady and cool. A sweet memory.

Column probably salvaged from some older temple?  There is a lot of that on view.

The original Pantheon was built much lower--the modern city has elevated itself on the ruins of the old city; you can see this from the rear.    The front was packed, crowded with tourist baking in the sun as they waited to enter what is now a church, national monument and burial site for heroes of the nation.

A Few More Snaps from the Galleria Borghese

Bernini's version of David winding up to slay Goliath--David has Bernini's face.

Another famed sculpture by the long-lived artist. He lived into his 80's. On our last day, we saw one of his last works in a church in Trastevere.

I don't know if this bust is by Bernini, but like the old man in the previous post, I liked it.

It took us every bit of the allowed 2 hours to appreciate this compact treasure house. Promptly when our time was up, security guards shooed us all out.  Fortunately there is a website and You Tubes about the Galleria, so we can always "virtual visit" if we want.

Main Event for the Day--still May 18, our first full day in Rome

Galleria Borghese: per square inch and pound for pound, this is the most powerful, jaw-dropping, eye-popping art assembly I have ever seen in one small container. (I'm no expert, but I've seen a few art museums.) The cost to visit is about the usual--15 euro per head--but you need to obtain reservations for your 2 hour appointment to visit. The 17th Century palace is small considering the quantity and quality of the works. They only allow a few visitors in a one time and they watch you like a hawk!

The original owner of the palace was an early patron of Gian Bernini, whose great talent as a sculptor seemed to free his subjects from the marble they had been trapped in since Creation.

There seems to be about half-a-dozen Bernini sculptures in the Galleria, some are shown in the rooms for which they were designed, in the 1600's.     See? Limiting the visitors means the crowding is low. Everyone can enjoy the experience.

Every inch, nook and cranny is covered in decorative details, painting, et cetera.

Statues and busts of Renaissance and Ancient Romans, left and right.

This Guy!

This old gent was one of my favorites of the entire museum. I'm sure it is no accident that the bust was placed near the stylized lion beside him.  And there's more to see at the Galleria.

Architectural Details of Rome: too many to count them all!

Our first full day in Rome was Saturday, May 18, 2019. We discovered Roman coffee and pastries. I didn't get enough pastries; I'm sorry now that I did not.

There was the stop at the Pantheon in a light rain. It was not over crowded at that time. To meet up with one of our family members (on study trip to Venice), we made the hike to the Termini, or main rail station, to meet her returning train and take the two of them to lunch. (Son and daughter in law).

Restrooms are something new to get used to for strangers here. Men and women use common facilities: a private cubicle right next to one for the opposite sex; a common wash-up area. In the train station, the entrance to the bathroom cost a euro; I nearly followed my son into the men's side, losing a euro in the process. Blush.   Frequently there is no toilet seat on the squar-ish shaped potties! I confess to being a little too old for such novelties.

I could not stop taking photos of every nook and cranny! My son pointed out the purposely designed, semi-finished window sills, above. Details like that are everywhere. The senses are blitzed with delicious detail, especially on your first day in Rome.

Just lying around in random places, usually in bits of older infrastructure, pieces of Ancient Rome. Snaking through the city was the remains of the old Roman walls. Imagine.

Bits and shards of marbles and statuary, used along with toff. No formal presentation, much of it is covered in weeds and even littered with trash and garbage. For the innocent new tourist, it seems a shame and a shock! But the many generations of Romans have lived among the ruins for many centuries.

The wall, a section re-purposed for back wall of homes. So interesting. Below, a turret along the wall; you can often see the old arrow slits built in to help defend when necessary. All that, co-mingled with the modern roads, cars, trolley ways, buses, motor bikes, bikes and people of today.

Finally: Rome. All my life I've wanted to go to Rome. Part One of Many.

Above, the Ocular of the Pantheon in rain. Happily, this was our first "sight seeing" adventure in Rome, on May 18, in a light cool rain. The haze around the Ocular is the impression of the rain.
Perfect.

I planned the entire trip myself and I was happy and satisfied with how it turned out. The air travel, hotel, etc. went perfectly to plan. I was disappointed with Lufthansa flight from Chicago to Frankfurt: very very cramped seat, broken arm rest, terrible terrible food (not just "airline terrible" but "dog food terrible") Lufthansa from Frankfurt to Rome was much better! United Flights home were much better.

We stayed in Trastevere at Kiara Guesthouse, which I found on Expedia. We had a small apartment for our 2 week stay. It was safe, clean, comfortable and quiet. (Any noises were brief, happy or interesting noises.) The building was old, solid and interesting, with classic court yard.  Kiara is a real person: lovely, gracious, responsive to queries and very nice.

Street art and ads were everywhere in Rome, as was (too much) graffiti! 

Door ways and building entrances were routinely evocative and dignified. I took about 900 photos.

I love this one: typical narrow back street lined with apartment or hotel blocks. People park their cars and motor bikes literally everywhere. As Americans, we have been taught not to Jay-Walk. Well, in Italy, if you don't jay walk, you will stand there forever. You make eye contact with the drivers and just proceed into traffic! (Major intersections have ped traffic signals, of course.) Magically, cars stop for you.    Now that I am back in the 'States, I must unlearn this technique!